Why move away from fast fashion for more thoughtful consumption? What hides the price of a pair of shoes? Try to answer.
Why there fast fashion Does it stand out regularly? Here are some comparisons of production methods and fast fashion design with those of a brand that manufactures manager effort to enlighten you: Minuit Sur Terre.
The latest IPCC report is alarming, climate concern is supposed to be on everyone’s lips, and yet fast fashion always have a bright future ahead. Last example, the giant of the fast fashion Chinese (whom I will not name) has just raised the tidy sum of almost $2 billion to continue with its international development.
This fundraiser primarily illustrates one thing: consumers pay attention to their budget. Something that is difficult to reproach them given the drop in purchasing power…
In truth, it is our entire mode of consumption that needs to be revised. And Minuit Sur Terre tries to participate.
The brand was born out of the consternation of Marie Viard-Klein, its founder, of not finding a partner who meets all its ethical requirements. This is how Minuit Sur Terre was born in 2016. The brand offers sandals, ankle boots, slippers, babies and socks every season. without animal matter and partially composed of recycled materials.
But what is really the difference between a pair of Minuit Sur Terre and a brand that offers sneakers for €30?
How is creation really going on the fast fashion side?
The information is known: The fashion industry is one of the most harmful to the environment., closely following that of oil. But how exactly does it work? To answer it, she is the historian and specialist in the fashion ecosystem, audrey millet which gave me many answers.
He explains that, very often, the big brands of fast fashion it doesn’t have an in-house stylist or creative team. Items are ordered directly from style offices, or design factories. And when the company is accused of plagiarism, it defends itself by blaming the style office.
Paying for a designer and licensing a design is more expensive than delegating the protection of a sketch: the fast fashion go for the cheapest. If you find $5 items, they probably weren’t ethically designed by well-treated stylists.
” In fast fashionLess than a month passes between the design of the garment and its sale in stores »
The fast fashion it means the production and distribution of clothing collections in record time. The offer is constantly renewed, often up to twice a month, to create desire in the consumer and give them the feeling that by continuing to buy, they will be in trend.
In opposition, the so-called brands of slow fashion only offer two to four collections per year, one per season, or even use advance orders to produce only what is necessary to avoid surplus and waste. This is the case of Minuit Sur Terre.
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What are the processes of a more responsible creation mode?
At Minuit Sur Terre, designing a collection takes more thanone year before it goes into production.
The brand has no problem revealing its processes and plays the game of transparency: the designer imagines the models and sends the designs via software to their workshops. near Porto in Portugal and near Nantes in France. Then comes the choice of materials, then the prototyping, thanks to the modeller, who materializes the design and can conceptualize the patterns of the different parts of the shoe.
Obviously, if the design team decides to test new materials, or envision a new product category, these lead times can be considerably longer because take into account a whole series of tests to check the feasibility of the project.
For Minuit sur Terre, this was the case when the use of a vegan apple-based faux leather it was considered for objects that deserve more resistance, such as belts, sneakers or bags. took in test strength, wear and life…
While for the objects of fast fashion, few quality control tests are performed, less research and development. And you quickly feel at home when you dare to wash clothes from disposable fashion brands…
Minuit sur Terre has chosen keep your design and manufacture in Europe (Portugal, France). Countries close to France that allow teams to not exploit their carbon footprint during their trips to get there or for the delivery of pairs to the French warehouse. This has an impact on the price, compared to brands of fast fashion.
Behind a cheap pair of shoes, there is sure to be someone somewhere who is suffering.
During his videoconference on the topic: The price of fast fashion versus luxury, audrey millet explain that price has a story. Originally, it was one of the criteria, along with brand and quality, that distinguished low-end items aimed at mass markets from high-end items aimed at more luxurious markets.
But today, Difficult to differentiate at a glance an item at €20 from another at €200. To drive down prices, brands make economies of scale: the more they buy enough to produce astronomical quantities of parts, the more they can get for material prices, manufacturing costs, etc. allowing them well sell each piece for less.
So how did it become so easy to sell at low prices? Well it all starts with reduction of production costs that encourages production in developing countries where labor costs less. But this requires more intermediaries as well as longer routing.
This triggers industrial pollution, social unrest and damage to human health – which invariably leads to exploitation of the workforce. In addition, companies from fast fashion fight against wage increases in emerging countries, which maintains social and economic inequalities, in addition to causing a lot of industrial waste and therefore pollution.
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What is the price of a shoe?
In Minuit Sur Terre, shoe prices vary between €110 and €150. The label has chosen Italy for the manufacture of its materials and Portugal for the design of its products. two countries where regulations protect workers. They are remunerated at their fair value and work no chemicals likely to have adverse effects on your health.
Once the first part of creation is finished, the manufacturing comes and the cutting of the materials with a punching machine or by means of a laser machine begins, depending on the rhythm of the robotization of the machine. Then comes the assembly, assembly and assembly of the sole. And finally, the finishes that allow the brand to add the details that make it happy, such as laces, buttons and touch up everything.
“Given that we are a small company, the volume of products created and marketed is necessarily less than in fast fashion, but it is also and above all a desire on our part not to leave the collections as often as they do. The goal is to make small collections with small volumes, so as not to encourage excessive consumption. »
How to unlearn to consume?
Why do we like to expand our wardrobe so much? principally for the emotion created during the act of purchase. A state that we will try to find again and again consuming more and more.
Far from the clichés of eco-responsible brands with minimalist models, Minuit Sur Terre shoes are colourful, graphic as well as designed to last.
Beautiful objects that you will like to see and put back, that create a story over time, that is the whole principle of slow fashion : take the time to enjoy more time.
Instructions to move from fast-fashion to a more ethical and responsible style